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Golden ScissorsMaida Vale · W9

Itchy Scalp Causes and How to Fix Each One

The itchy scalp causes we see most from behind the chair, how to tell which one you have from what else is going on, and the fix for each of them.

7 min readGolden Scissors, Maida Vale, London

A barber at the basin testing the water on the inside of his own wrist before it touches the reclined customer's hair

Itchy scalp causes, in the order we see them from the chair: sweat left to dry, a shampoo that is too strong or water that is too hot, conditioner and product that never got rinsed out, a reaction to something new, and skin that is genuinely flaking. Plenty of itchy scalps have no flakes at all, and plenty clear up within a fortnight of changing one habit. The way to find yours is to stop thinking about the itch and start noticing what else is going on.

Work out which itch you have got

The itch on its own tells you almost nothing. When it starts, where it sits and whether anything is coming off tell you nearly everything.

  • Itching with flakes you can see. Big and greasy or small and powdery decides everything, so read dandruff against dry scalp first and come back here if it turns out to be neither.
  • Itching on training days, gone by morning. Salt. Sweat dries and the salt stays on the skin. A lukewarm rinse within an hour of finishing sorts it, and the gym scalp piece has the rest.
  • Itching that starts an hour after a wash. The shower is doing it. Water too hot, shampoo too harsh, or conditioner still at the roots. This is the one we hear about most, and it comes with no flakes.
  • Itching in one place. Under a cap band, along the neckline, at the temples where a razor went, on the crown after a weekend in the sun. Something touched that spot and the skin objected.
  • Itching worse at night, behind the ears and low at the back, with school-age children in the house. Check for lice before anything else. September is when they turn up.
  • Bumps, redness with a clear edge, anything weeping or crusting, or an itch that has woken you up more than once. Pharmacist, then GP if they send you on. We will say this once here instead of at the foot of every section: barbers can tell you what a scalp looks like, and that is all we can tell you.

Itchy scalp causes that leave nothing behind

No flakes, no bumps, nothing you can point to in the mirror, just a head that wants scratching by mid afternoon. Nearly all of these come out of the bathroom.

Hot water. The biggest one. A shower hot enough to steam the mirror takes oil off your scalp faster than the scalp puts it back, and the skin answers by tightening and itching. Turn it down to merely warm for the part where you wash your hair. Have it as hot as you like on your back.

A shampoo that is too strong for you. Anything that leaves the scalp squeaky has taken too much. If you can feel your scalp after a wash, the shampoo is wrong, not your head. Swap it for the plainest mild one you can find.

Conditioner and product left in. Conditioner is for the lengths. On the skin it dries to a film that itches on its own, and clay does the same if it goes in daily and only gets a quick rinse. Keep rinsing after you think you are done, then count to twenty. London water is hard, so shampoo takes longer to rinse clean here than in a soft-water town, and the bottle's idea of a rinse was not written for W9.

Something new. A new shampoo, a new clay, a beard oil that works its way up into the sideburns, or hair dye, the worst of them. If it started within a week of a new bottle, the bottle is the suspect until proven otherwise. Stop it for a fortnight before you blame anything else.

Hats and helmets. A cycle helmet or a hard hat holds sweat against one strip of skin all day, and the band goes back on tomorrow before it has dried. An itch that runs in a line across the forehead and round the back at the same height is that. Wash the band, let it dry, and rinse your hair when you get in rather than at bedtime.

When the itch arrived with the haircut

Some itching is the cut, and this is the one section where we are the right people to ask.

The regrowth prickle. Three or four days after a skin fade or a head shave, the hair coming back through has a blunt, stiff end, and it scratches the skin around it as it lifts. It passes by the end of the week. It is worse on thick, coarse hair and barely there on fine hair. A taper fade costs the same £17 for the same 40 minutes, leaves a little length at the bottom, and never does it.

The razor on your edges. Small itchy bumps along the nape or the temples two days after a cut are the razor. Tell us trimmers only on the edges and the blade stays in the drawer. The line ends up a touch softer and your neck stops complaining. It is a sentence to say at the start, not a complaint to make at the end.

Sun on the parting. A skin fade or a buzz leaves skin up there that never sees a hat, and early September sun burns it the same as July does. Peeling on the crown a week later is sunburn, not dandruff, and protecting hair and scalp from the sun is its own post.

The one that comes home from school

Head lice do not care how clean your hair is, and they do not stay on children. They come home in the first weeks of term, and a few weeks later it is the parents wondering why their own head has started.

The itch sits behind the ears and low at the back of the head, it is worse at night, and there are usually no flakes. You will rarely see a live louse. What you can see are the eggs, stuck to the hair close to the scalp, and unlike dandruff they do not brush off. The check is simple. Conditioner on wet hair, a fine-toothed detection comb from roots to ends, wipe it on white kitchen roll between strokes and look at what came off. A pharmacist will tell you what to do next. They have seen it a thousand times.

Deal with it before you book a haircut. Combs and clippers move from one head to the next all day, and a barber who finds live lice halfway through has to stop and clean everything down.

Change one thing a week, and buy less

A lot of what is sold for an itchy scalp is a mild shampoo with a smell and a higher price. A mild shampoo is what an itching scalp usually needs anyway, so buy the plain one and spend the difference on a detection comb.

Then make one change a week, in this order. Water temperature first. Then the rinse, twice as long as feels reasonable. Then the shampoo, swapped for the plainest one on the shelf. Then no product and no conditioner anywhere near the skin. Change all four on the same Monday and the itch stops, but you have fixed it and learned nothing, so it comes back the first week you get lazy about one of them. In order, it tells you which one it was.

Keep a note on your phone of what you changed and when. If a month of that has moved nothing, take the note to the pharmacist. It turns "my head itches" into a history, and that is the difference between leaving with another shampoo and being sent to someone who can look properly.

There is one test we can run for you. Book a Wash & Cut, £18 and 40 minutes, tell us the water is part of the problem, and we will run the basin cool and rinse you for longer than you ever would at home. If your scalp feels better an hour after that than it does an hour after your own shower, you have your answer.

Most of the itchy scalps we hear about were made in a hot shower. Start there.

Common questions

Why is my scalp itchy when I have no dandruff?
Usually the shower. Water that is too hot, a shampoo that is too harsh, or conditioner left sitting on the skin. Cool the water and rinse for longer before you buy anything.
Can a haircut cause an itchy scalp?
For a few days, yes. Blunt regrowth after a skin fade or head shave prickles as it comes through, and a razor on the neckline can leave bumps. Both pass by the end of the week. Ask for trimmers only on the edges if your skin is prone to it.
Does an itchy scalp mean I have head lice?
Not usually, but in September it is worth ruling out first if there are school-age children in the house. The itch sits behind the ears and at the nape and is worse at night. A detection comb on wet, conditioned hair settles it in five minutes.
Should I wash my hair more or less if my scalp itches?
Change how before how often. Cooler water, a milder shampoo and a longer rinse fix more itchy scalps than any change in frequency. Go to every other day only if it still feels tight an hour after a wash.
When should I see a GP about an itchy scalp?
If there are bumps, redness with a clear edge, anything weeping or crusting, hair coming out, or the itch is waking you up. Start with a pharmacist, and take a note of what you have already tried.

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