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Golden ScissorsMaida Vale · W9

How to Trim Your Own Beard Between Cuts

How to trim your own beard between barber visits: the kit that matters, the order to work in, the guard to start on, and the two lines to leave well alone.

6 min readGolden Scissors, Maida Vale, London

A beard combed flat against the jaw with a wide-toothed comb while a guarded trimmer works along the length underneath

If you want to know how to trim your own beard between barber visits, it is three habits: trim it dry, start on a guard longer than you think you need, and leave the neckline and the cheek line alone. Hold to those and you can carry your own length for weeks without anything going wrong. Ignore the third one and your next appointment gets spent waiting for your neck to grow back. Here is the version we talk men through in the chair.

What is yours to cut, and what is ours

There is a clean split here, and it is not about skill. It is about what you can see.

Yours: the length. The moustache where it comes over your lip. The odd wiry hair up on the cheekbone or out of the top of an ear. All of that sits on the front of your face, in the flat plane the mirror shows you honestly, and you can take it down with no real risk.

Ours: the neckline and the cheek line. Both of those live on a curve, and a mirror gives you a flat picture of a curved surface. You end up cutting where the reflection says rather than where your jaw is, and the result is always a bit higher and a bit flatter than you meant. That is before the second problem, which is that you cannot see your own neck at all without a hand mirror and some contortion.

So trim the middle of the beard and let someone else handle the edges. That one rule prevents most of what walks back in here needing a rescue.

The kit, and what you can skip

A trimmer with proper guards. That is the whole list, more or less. What matters is that the guards step up in small increments and clip on tightly, and that the battery holds a charge, because a dying trimmer drags hair rather than cutting it and you will feel every millimetre of that.

A wide-toothed beard comb, so you can lift and flatten the hair before the blade reaches it.

A small pair of scissors for the moustache. Clippers on a moustache take off more than you intended roughly every time.

Decent light, and not the downlights in your bathroom. Those throw a shadow straight down under your jaw, which hides exactly the part you are about to get wrong. Stand near a window if you can.

What to skip: the plastic beard shaping templates. They put a line where the template says, and the template does not know where your jaw corner is or which side of your face grows heavier. Faces are not symmetrical and those things assume they are.

How to trim your own beard, in order

Order matters more than technique. Most home trims go wrong because they were done in the wrong sequence, not because the man holding the trimmer was clumsy.

  1. Start dry and clean. Not straight out of the shower. Wet hair stretches under a comb and springs back shorter as it dries, so you cut a 3 and end up wearing a 2.
  2. Comb it out. Downwards first to see the true length, then forward off the jaw. This lifts the hairs that have been lying flat and hiding.
  3. Pick your guard, then go one longer. If you want to finish on a 2, run a 3 first and look at it. A second pass costs thirty seconds. Growing a beard back costs three weeks. If you are not sure what the numbers leave you, our guide to guard numbers has the millimetres.
  4. First pass against the growth, working from the sideburn down and forward towards the chin. Going against the grain stands the hair up so the blade meets all of it, which is what stops the patchy, half-cut look.
  5. Second pass with the growth, lightly, to knock down anything that stood up and was missed.
  6. Do the chin last and check it properly. Chin hair grows longest and gets missed most, because you are looking at yourself straight on and the chin is the bit angled away from you. Tip your head back and look.
  7. Moustache with the scissors. Comb it straight down over your lip and cut only the hairs that cross the lip line, a few at a time. Never the whole edge in one sweep.
  8. Then stop. Put it down and walk away.

Step eight is the one men skip.

The two lines to leave alone

Short version, because we have written the long one already.

The neckline sits about two fingers above your Adam's apple and curves up towards the back corner of the jaw on each side. Not along the jawline. The reason home necklines fail is not that men cut them badly once, it is that each redo starts from the last one and creeps up a few millimetres, and by the third go it has climbed onto the jaw and the beard reads as a chinstrap.

The cheek line is a real choice rather than a mistake waiting to happen, but it is a choice with an upkeep bill, and it wants a razor and a steady hand every fortnight. Where those two lines belong, and whether you want a hard cheek line at all, is set out in our piece on beard shape, length and neckline.

The symmetry trap

This is how a beard gets destroyed at home, and it happens to careful men more than careless ones.

You notice the left side sits a fraction longer. You take a little off the left. Now the right looks longer, so you even up the right. Then the left again. Every correction is subtractive, there is no undo, and twenty minutes later you are two grades shorter than you started and the two sides still do not match.

They were never going to match. Nobody's jaw is symmetrical, nobody's growth is even, and the difference you are staring at from eight inches away in a lit bathroom is invisible to everyone who looks at you from conversational distance. If your eye keeps going back to one side, leave it until the next day and look at it in daylight. Nine times out of ten it has fixed itself, because the problem was the mirror and the angle rather than the beard.

What to ask for when you come back in

Tell us what you have been doing yourself. "I have been holding it at a 2, can you set the neck and even out the chin" is a complete instruction and it takes a few seconds to say. A beard someone is maintaining at home gets trimmed differently from one that has been left, and we would rather work with your number than override it.

A beard trim with us is £11 and holds a chair for a quarter of an hour, which is enough to even out whatever the fortnight has done to the length and reset both edges with the razor. Booked alongside a haircut it comes down £2, so the pair is £24 in one sitting.

One last thing worth knowing. If the beard needs to look right for something specific, a wedding, photographs, an interview, get it done three or four days before rather than that morning. A freshly cut cheek line looks freshly cut for about forty-eight hours, and by day three it has softened into looking like your face. We are open until 7:30pm Monday to Saturday and 6:30pm on a Sunday, so leave yourself a few days and book it in rather than turning up on the morning and hoping.

Common questions

Should I trim my beard wet or dry?
Dry, and combed out. Wet beard hair pulls straight and then springs back shorter as it dries, so a trim that looked right at the sink is a grade too short by the time you leave the house.
What guard should I use to trim my own beard?
One number longer than where you want to finish. Anything between a 1 and a 3 covers most short beards, and you can always take a second pass. You cannot put it back on.
Can I do my own neckline?
We would rather you did not. The line belongs about two fingers above the Adam's apple and it curves up towards the back corner of the jaw, and almost nobody cuts that accurately looking at a flat reflection of a curved neck. It also creeps higher every time you redo it.
How often should I trim my own beard between visits?
Once a week at most, and only the length. If you are reaching for the trimmer more often than that you are tidying an imaginary problem, and every pass takes a little more off.
I have trimmed one side shorter than the other. What now?
Put the trimmer down. Chasing the short side with the long side is how a beard ends up half the length you wanted. Leave it a few days, or come in and we will even it out in a 15 minute slot for £11.

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